THE INDIANIZATION OF LEWIS

HERE IS IRENE'S THIRD INDIA E-MAIL POSTING:

There was no reason to be shocked when Lewis came down to the hotel lobby barefoot for tea yesterday. He was initially skeptical as to whether we should be returning to India on this trip rather than heading to a new destination altogether. With every new movie we saw that was set in India and every news report from India, he remembered more and more the things that did not appeal to him in India. The country does indeed show some of the worst, ugliest, most revolting aspects of mankind but it also has the most exquisite, appealing and beautiful.

India somehow manages to seduce you. It works its way into your soul and permeates your being. It has been interesting to watch as India transforms Lewis. I think that the first sign was the head wagging! When an Indian person is following a conversation, the head inclines slightly and with moderate speed from side to side (ear towards shoulder). I would be relating something to Lewis and suddenly realize that his head was wagging!!

More inscrutable is the swivel. Think of nodding "no" but only turn your head slowly and go just half way....then stop. Is that a "yes" or a "no" or an indication of disinterest? I am still not sure but Lewis seems to be adopting that habit too!

Then, when I would tell Lew a story , he would start saying "aachaa" (the Indian version of "uh-huh"). He says it even when we are talking with Indians. It is now a part of his lexicon. The latest is "tee-kay" (okay, fine) which is stated frequently.

Before we left on the trip, Lew vowed that this trip would be easier than the last one...that we would not make it so hard on ourselves. We would stay in more upscale places and have reservations made ahead of time. I did reserve a hotel in Delhi for our arrival but getting a room at the lovely Hotel Ganges View in Varanasi was impossible so I booked us in at the basic Sahi River View Guest House next door(1200R or about $27). We went to make dinner reservations at the Ganges View and were told that there had been a cancellation. A room was available for 3100R. "Why on earth should we change! We have checked in already and why pay 3 times the price! What more do we need?" was Lewis' reaction. I can understand that- why live excessively in a country where so many lack basic necessities. I had not thought of Lewis as the new Gandhi.

Our carry-on luggage is now straining at the zippers and is increasingly hard to "carry on". Lewis has begun to collect "dhokra". I do feel badly for our kids because this new collection of primitive handcast metal sculptures will occupy a large space in the garage sale they will have to hold to liquidate our estate.At the tribal markets in Orissa Lewis was in full form negotiating for the figurines.

And the food....!!!! Usually Lewis complains about the food in India. All of that heavily spiced and sauced food! But now he has rediscovered his love of Indian Chinese food (Chindian, I call it). It is a bit sweeter, saucier and without the heavy soy base of the Chinese food we usually have at home. Chindian, chindian, chindian. He eats heartily and feels great. He also now maintains that he will stay a vegetarian....well with chicken....and maybe shrimp....fish perhaps...eggs definitely. Am I am losing him to India?

On our last day with car, driver and guide in Orissa, we stopped at a roadside dhaba (eatery) for a lunch break. Lew and I weren't hungry so we waited at a little drink shack at the side of the highway (another story there) and sipped our Thumbs Up (coca cola equivalent). " Just a minute". said Lewis and he got up. I looked over and there he was standing next to a pile of garbage and debris , his back to the road and with that unmistakable posture of a male marking his territory.

I think the Indianization of Lewis is complete.